October 3, 2011

Sachsenhausen

I've been feeling much better the last couple days (in case you were wondering) and have therefore managed to leave the hostel! Yeah! First thing I did was a 3.5 hour free walking tour of Berlin. It was an amazing way to get an introduction to the city and touch on places that I will go back to for a better look later in the week. One example is the Holocaust memorial down town and the Pergamon museum (on my 'must see' list).  The tour guide was helpful in giving tips on how to jump the queue for the Pergamon by purchasing tickets about 2 blocks away at a small corner store... little known fact as the queue snakes around the building and down the sidewalk a fair ways.

The walking tour covered almost 700 years of Berlin history which was a bit overwhelming to say the least. One particular part of history I had no real previous extensive knowledge about is the Berlin Wall and the political situations that lead to it being built and the destruction of it. In all my high school history classes it was mentioned but never really covered to any degree (I also had no interest). From what I have since learned as far as the reason for its falling was a poorly prepared press conference. Essentially it came down to one man being very unprepared for the press conference as he missed the briefing meeting prior to. The conference was more about the lifting of the Iron Curtain and the unrest surrounding that however he accidentally said that the Berlin Wall would also be coming down, that very night. Oops. Not what was planned at all. Anyhow thats the very abridged version but fairly stupid on his part.

Speaking of 3.5 hour walking tour, about one hour in some silly tourist managed to sprain her ankle while walking on the cobble stones down the side walk. What a mess. She was limping the whole time and wouldn't stop complaining the rest of the tour. You will never guess who that tourist was. It was me. And I wasn't complaining out loud, it was all in my head... but agony! It is just about impossible to find ice for sale (or for free) in this city. I still haven't managed to find any. But wait, it gets better...

Today I was feeling even better (as far as the cold goes) so off I go to visit the Sachsenhausen concentration camp about 20mins north of Berlin. It is less well known than Auschwitz or Dachau but its what the Nazi's considered the 'model' for all the other camps. It wasn't the first to open but it also was the headquarters where the SS were trained how to run the other camps. In this post, you will not find any pictures of Sachsenhausen as I did not take any. For me, taking pictures of a place where tens of thousands of people where murdered just didn't feel right. I also think it is something each individual person must see and experience for themselves as just being at the camp and standing on the grounds has an atmosphere of its own. Its easy to look at pictures of concentration camps in textbooks, information books, or on the internet but until you are actually there and physically see where it happened, a true understanding cannot be reached. I was there, I saw it, I still don't understand how or why but I am a step closer to understanding.

I will try to put into words what I saw and give a bit of a background about Sachsenhausen. I did a paid tour of the camp as I felt it was the best way to visit it. We all met up in Berlin and took the train north. We got off the train at the same stop the prisoners would have and walked up the same street to the camp as well. This camp was a labor camp meaning the prisoners either died from working until exhaustion, malnutrition, or disease. This is compared to one such as Auschwitz which is classified as an extermination camp. The prisoners at Sachsenhausen were required to test the soles of different Nazi army boots by walking continuously on a rocky path while carrying 50lbs sand bags all day. If a prisoner was assigned to this task, his life expectancy was less than 12 days meaning that if he came into the camp and started this task, he would only survive for 12 more before he died from exhaustion. There were many similar tasks but the main production coming from this camp was bricks for Nazi buildings in Berlin and for other concentration camps across Europe. Anyhow, this could go on and on but I'll spare more detail. Most of the original buildings were destroyed in the early 50's as the thought was 'why would anyone want to see a place such as this'. There has been a fair amount of restoration work done on a couple of the barracks but most buildings within the camp walls were left where they fell. One building that was almost untouched and has been restored was the infirmary. This is where the medical experiments were carried out by 'doctors' on the prisoners. 

Sachsenhausen was liberated by the Soviets in 1945 however it continued to be utilized by the Soviets for their prisoners of war for a further 5 years. It also held Nazis before they were trailed at Nurnberg.

It took about an hour longer to get back into Berlin than expected as the 2 of the train systems are down. This did not bode any better for said sprained ankle that by this point in the day is the same size as my upper thigh from even more walking. Why, might you ask, didn't you, an Athletic Therapist, tape your ankle before going on the tour today? Well my friends, I did not pack any tape. WHAT?!! Ya, I am S-M-R-T. The thought crossed my mind as I was packing my bags in Calgary however, in the mad rush to go on vacation for 6 months... I forgot. For some reason, the part of Berlin I am staying in doesn't seem like the type of place that would have tape of any kind... but more on that in a few days.

I am in Berlin until Wednesday morning. Tomorrow (Monday) is October 3rd meaning its Reunification Day. This means its been 21 years since the East and West have come together to become one. Huge events going on all over the city so that's what I will be up to all day... and night. I met some Americans on the tour today so we may see the city together tomorrow. Some how the topic of baseball came up (if you really know me, you will know I LOOOVE the Dodgers so it really isn't strange that the topic came up...). Anyhow, one guy was a pitcher who was drafted right out of high school. He was with the team for a year before he went back to college (part of the contract... another story all together). This wasn't because he never played, it was because his house got broken into while he was home so he grabbed one of the robbers and started beating on the guy when robber number 2 grabbed his arm and dislocated it. Long story short, no more baseball for awhile so he decided to travel for a few months before school starts again.

Ok, I think that's long enough of a post.

K

PS. I wrote this on Sunday but am posting it on Monday...




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